Sewing Machine Cover, Part 3

Today we'll go over how to finish the sewing machine cover! This post will be a bit longer, because I want to include all the steps to finishing it, instead of putting the very last one into a super short post. Let's look at how to do the lining/pocket, quilting, and finishing techniques.

Cutting the Lining

This the trickiest part of the project for me (even more so than the initial math). But hopefully it will be a little easier now; during this project, I came up with a new formal to figure out the dimensions for the lining pieces. Because of the pocket, the lining needs to be a little fancy (unless you're skipping the pocket, in which case, just cut the lining the same size as your finished pieced section and skip the rest of this part).
Now for the lining, you're going have two separate pieces. The first piece is going to be smaller, the size of the pocket piece (2-3 rows, depending on your design) plus 1 more row. So you'll have to measure the height of a row that's already been sewn into the piece. Pick one from the larger pieced section, that doesn't have any visible seam allowance. Multiply that measurement by the number of rows on the pocket plus 1, so 3 if your pocket has 2 rows, and 4 if your pocket has 3 rows. Then add your seam allowance times 2.
For example, if my row is 4.5" high, and I'm using 2 rows for the pocket, I'll get 13.5" + 1" = 14.5" (I used 1/2" seam allowances). The width will the same as the width of the large pieced section and the pocket section. This piece will be attached to the smaller pieced section, which will form the pocket.
For the next piece of lining, take the height of the row that you used to determine the size of the previous piece and multiply that by the number of rows on the larger pieced section plus 1. My piece had 5 rows, so I put 4.5" x 6 = 27". Then add in your allowances; I got 28" after I put in mine. The width will be the same as the pieced sections and first lining piece.
Cut out pieces of lining with the measurements you just got. Sew the larger piece of lining to the pocket piece, and the smaller piece of the lining to the large pieced section. right sides together. Don't forget to cut 2 pieces of lining the size of the side panels (from the measurements you took in part 1, the height and width of side/end of the machine plus seam allowances). Cut the side panels as well, from the material you want to use for them. Save the leftover lining fabric to make some bias tape, if you have enough left.
If you're using any tape to make a grid-like design the way I did on this cover, you can slip the edges of the tape between the lining and pieced sections before you sew it, so you don't have to worry about finishing any edges!

Batting

To cut the batting, you'll want to spread it out on a table or even the floor, depending on the size you have. When I bought mine, I ended up getting a twin-blanket-size piece, partly because it was on sale, but mostly because my math to determine how much I would need was a little off. Perhaps more than a little: the first cover only used a small section of the piece, and the piece itself was too big to fit on the kitchen counter without draping over to the floor on the other side. But it did provide plenty of batting left over for this project, and any other future projects.
Once the batting is laid out, place the larger of the two pieces on top of it, and cut the batting around the piece; I cut it a little bigger than the fabric to make it easier to layer (in case it shifted around a little while I was pinning it). You can trim the edges later if necessary once everything has been quilted together. Cut batting for the side panels the same way.
Place the layer with the front of the pocket right side down, then put the batting on top of it.

Then place the top piece over it, right side up. Once the layers are all lined up, pin along the edges. Do the same thing for the side panels.

Quilting & Bias tape

Quilt the top and sides however you like. On the first cover I used a diagonal pattern, but for this project I used the strips of single-fold tape made from the same material as the side panels that I pinned along the seams between the squares as a guide for quilting. Make sure to check the batting package to see the maximum space between stitching lines. Trim the sides if necessary.

This is the part where you'll need to either buy or make double-fold bias tape. I prefer making my own, because there are more color/fabric options. Bias tape makers, such as those by Clover, make it super easy. If you've never tried it, there are two options: the traditional method (which has fewer seams) and the continuous method (which has more seams on the tape itself, but less sewing of very short seams). I love this tutorial by No Big Dill on how to make continuous bias tape. For the strips that will trim the bottom edge of the cover and the top edge of the pocket, I make tape that isn't cut on the bias, because I don't need it to stretch, and I use left over material from the piece I cut the squares (and/or side panels) from. Check out this quick tutorial from How to Sew for a refresher on sewing strips of tape together.
If you've made some tape out of leftover fabric from the squares, use that to bind the edge that will be the top of the pocket. Or use packaged bias tape in the color of your choice. (I can't suggest a certain amount of bias tape for this project, because it really depends on the measurements of your project.)

Once the edge is bound with bias tape, fold it up, matching the seam on the larger piece, and pin in place to form the pocket. 

Finishing

Side panels
Now we just need to attach the side panels and bind the edges. Find the center of your large quilted piece on the machine by draping it on top of the machine evenly and seeing how it lines up.. It will most likely be the middle seam, but it doesn't hurt to double check. If the center isn't on a seam, mark it with a pin.

With the right side facing up, put the side panels right side down and match the centers. Pin in place. (Note: I like to cut off the corners of the side panels, much as you would if making a pointed collar.)

Now you can either sew this down, leaving your seam allowances at the sides, or you can pin the sides up as well. I like to pin the sides and sew the whole thing as one seam.



However, when you sew up the side that has the pocket (or the back side, if you're not making a pocket), leave several inches at the bottom unsewn, like this:

Binding
Now for the fancy finish! Take your bias tape that's made from lining material (or store-bought bias tape) and use it to bind the side seams that are sewn down to the bottom (the front seam). Don't bind the whole seam just yet, just do about 5-6", and sew that segment. I tend to leave the tape as one long piece, and just work from each end, leaving the middle loose.



Then take the tape that matches the outside of the cover (or store-bought tape), and use it to bind the bottom edge of the cover, folding the bound side seams toward the side panels.

 Stitch it down, and then sew up those last few inches on the back side seams. Now, go back to the bias tape on the side seams, and finish pinning the binding on those edges. Don't forget to fold the bottom edge of the bias tape up under the tape to finish the edge when you get to the end! Stitch it down, and voilà! Your brand new, quilted sewing machine cover is done!

For added fun, you can make this cover reversible by using a different pattern of cotton on the inside, since it ends up looking just as good as the outside.

 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on how to make a quilted sewing machine cover. Check back soon for more fun ideas and sewing/knitting tips! 😊

Back to part 2
Back to the beginning