Changing Pattern Details: Cuffs
Greetings! I hope y'all had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
For most of November and December, I was battling sinus and chest infections, as well as some other health issues that flared up, which is why this post is a little later than I'd planned. But now that I'm finally feeling better, I've got the robe done and have plenty of pictures on how to add those cuffs.
Last time, we talked about adding a decorative strip of contrast across the patch pockets included in the Simplicity 1562 robe pattern. Now we'll add some matching cuffs to the sleeves to continue that contrast design.
First, let me say there are actually several ways to put contrast cuffs on sleeves. It depends a lot on your pattern and sewing machine. Cuffs that are separate pattern pieces from the sleeves are, of course, the easiest to change; you just cut the cuffs from the 2nd material. The pattern I'm using (see previous post) doesn't have separate pieces for the cuffs. They're made by turning up the edge of the sleeves, like a hem. That makes it a little more difficult to change the cuff, but not impossible.
At first, I thought I would just cut a strip of contrast to the height I wanted and sew it on to the end of the sleeve after shortening the cuff allowance from the pattern to 5/8", and then turn it up. But then I realized that the raw edges from the inside of the sleeve would show a bit, so it required a little more experimenting to get a nice, neat edge for the cuff. I came up with two different ways to do it.
The Cuffs
Before I started working on the cuffs, I made sure the sleeves were the right length. This tutorial isn't going to go into that; I'm going to just assume your pattern is already the right length or adjusted to the right length.
The first thing I did, before I attached the sleeves, was cut off the hem allowances at the wrists.
The amount of allowance should be listed on both the sewing
directions and the paper pattern piece. We'll look at two ways to attach
the contrast cuffs, but neither one requires any folding of the main
sleeve pieces, so we don't need those allowances. Cutting them off
ensures that the sleeves won't be too long when they're finished. If you
haven't cut out your pattern pieces yet, you can just fold up the paper
piece to eliminate the hem allowance and cut along that line.
Next, you need to measure how wide the sleeve is at the highest point of the cuff. I decided to make my cuff 3 and 1/4 inches tall, so I measured across the sleeve 3 1/4" above the edge. You might prefer a shorter or taller cuff; just make sure you're measuring the width of the sleeve at your desired cuff height.
It was about 19 3/4" across for my sleeve. You could also measure the width of the sleeve by the pattern paper for the size you cut, either folding up the hem allowance of the paper or adding that into your measurement (i.e. cuff height + hem allowance = height to measure at from bottom edge). This is especially helpful if you've already sewn up your sleeve. But I prefer to measure the fabric before sewing the sleeve, because my cut pieces are not always the same as the pattern papers they're cut from; they tend to be a bit wider than the pattern. If you also choose to measure the fabric, you can attach your sleeve and sew up the side seams once you have the width.
This is where the methods differ. Now that you have the width for the cuff piece, you need to determine the height for the piece, including seam allowances and folds. Each method requires a different formula.
Method 1:
The easiest method is to just do a binding-type edge.You cut a rectangle of material, sew it into a tube, turn under the raw edges at the top and bottom, fold the tube in half so the top and bottom edges meet (think double fold bias tape here), and attached it to the sleeve much like bias tape would be attached to finish a raw edge. This might also be a nice way to add a little extra length to a sleeve that came out too short, depending on how close to the sleeve edge you attach the cuff.
To find the total height you need for this method, you need to take the height you want the cuff to be and double it, then add two seam allowances for folding the raw edges. I would probably add about 1/2" extra for all the folds. Your formula would probably look something like this: (height of cuff x 2) + (seam allowance x 2) + 1/2" = total height of fabric for cuff. So for my cuff, it would be (3 1/4" x 2) + (5/8" x 2) + 1/2" = 8 1/4".
The trouble with this method is that for thick fabrics, like fleece, you're going to need to sew through quite a few layers, especially when sewing over seams. My machine doesn't like that, so I didn't use this method past the experimental stage. But since it is pretty simple, and not all machines would have trouble with it (especially if you're using thinner fabric, like flannel), I thought it deserved a mention.
Method 2:
This is the method I used to add the cuffs to my sleeves. It's a little more complicated than the binding-type edge, and I don't have a catchy name for it, but it does create a nice, neat edge with fewer layers to sew through. In fact, my machine didn't have any trouble with it at all. It also requires slightly less fabric than the binding method to create the same size cuffs, if you're running low on material.
We'll start from the same point as Method 1, where we've already measured the width of the sleeve. To determine the height for this method, you'll need to decide how far into the sleeve you want the inside edge to extend. I went with 1 1/4" for the inside edge. Basically it just has to be shorter than the cuff height you chose earlier, but I won't make it less than 1", so that the edge looks neater.
The formula for this method is: (inches from inside edge x 2) + height of cuff + 1/2" for folds +5/8" seam allowance for top edge = total height of fabric for cuff. I know it looks weird, but please bear with me. It'll make more sense as we go along, I promise.
For my cuff, I got (1 1/4" x 2) + 3 1/4" + 1/2" for folds + 5/8" seam allowance = 6 7/8". I rounded up to 7" for easier measuring, because it was only 1/8" more. Don't worry, it doesn't have to be exact, we just need a close number. You can always turn the seam allowance under a bit more if it ends up being taller than you want.
Now you have both the width and the height for the cuff piece. For me, it was 19 3/4" x 7". I found it easier to cut out a piece of newspaper with these dimensions and use it as pattern paper.
You might notice an inked line across the top of the newspaper piece. I just marked the seam allowance on it so that I could better line up the stripes of the plaid.
Once the two cuffs are cut out, match the short ends up with right sides together to form a tube and stitch them. Use the same seam allowance that you'll use on the sleeve.
This is the fun part! We're going to start attaching the cuffs to the sleeves. Turn both the cuffs and the sleeves inside out for the first step. Then, line up the raw edges and the side seams of the cuff and sleeve and pin them together. (If you have a specific edge of the cuff that you want to show outside the sleeve, keep that in mind when pinning them on.)
Pin all the way around the cuff. You might have to adjust the ease a little, but there shouldn't be any noticeable wrinkles or gathers.
Stitch all the way around the cuff using the seam allowance you decided on earlier. I went with 1 1/4", but my needle plate only goes up to about 6/8", so I attached a separate seam guide to get the proper allowance.
You can also use a piece of masking tape placed the appropriate distance from the needle as a guide.
Once it's all stitched, it should look something like this, with at least 1" of fabric below the stitching line.
Take the cuff, and pull it down away from the sleeve, like this.
The wrong side of the sleeve should be facing up while the right side of the cuff is showing. You could also stitch around the cuff close to the seam, like under-stitching, but I chose not to. I didn't think it was necessary, and thought it would be softer without that extra line of stitching. Then, turn the sleeve right side out.
I found it easier to turn under the raw edge before folding up the cuff.
But if you prefer, you can also turn cuff up to cover the inside seam and then turn the edge under. Once the cuff is folded up, pin it in place.
I left the pins in for the picture just to show that the edge was turned
under. I took out all the edge pins before sewing, and just left the
ones holding the cuff in place.
The inside should look something like this.
Stitch close to the fold around the edge of the cuff to attach it to the sleeve. I used the free arm on the machine and stitched just slightly over 1/4" from the edge.
And it's done!
The directions might make it seem like a long process, but it's actually pretty simple once you get going. There are really only two seams, and you get a lovely, folded appearance for the cuff.
And there's the whole robe all finished.
I hope this tutorial has inspired you to experiment with some of your own patterns and sewing projects! Until next time, readers!
For most of November and December, I was battling sinus and chest infections, as well as some other health issues that flared up, which is why this post is a little later than I'd planned. But now that I'm finally feeling better, I've got the robe done and have plenty of pictures on how to add those cuffs.
Last time, we talked about adding a decorative strip of contrast across the patch pockets included in the Simplicity 1562 robe pattern. Now we'll add some matching cuffs to the sleeves to continue that contrast design.
First, let me say there are actually several ways to put contrast cuffs on sleeves. It depends a lot on your pattern and sewing machine. Cuffs that are separate pattern pieces from the sleeves are, of course, the easiest to change; you just cut the cuffs from the 2nd material. The pattern I'm using (see previous post) doesn't have separate pieces for the cuffs. They're made by turning up the edge of the sleeves, like a hem. That makes it a little more difficult to change the cuff, but not impossible.
At first, I thought I would just cut a strip of contrast to the height I wanted and sew it on to the end of the sleeve after shortening the cuff allowance from the pattern to 5/8", and then turn it up. But then I realized that the raw edges from the inside of the sleeve would show a bit, so it required a little more experimenting to get a nice, neat edge for the cuff. I came up with two different ways to do it.
The Cuffs
Before I started working on the cuffs, I made sure the sleeves were the right length. This tutorial isn't going to go into that; I'm going to just assume your pattern is already the right length or adjusted to the right length.
The first thing I did, before I attached the sleeves, was cut off the hem allowances at the wrists.
Next, you need to measure how wide the sleeve is at the highest point of the cuff. I decided to make my cuff 3 and 1/4 inches tall, so I measured across the sleeve 3 1/4" above the edge. You might prefer a shorter or taller cuff; just make sure you're measuring the width of the sleeve at your desired cuff height.
This is where the methods differ. Now that you have the width for the cuff piece, you need to determine the height for the piece, including seam allowances and folds. Each method requires a different formula.
Method 1:
The easiest method is to just do a binding-type edge.You cut a rectangle of material, sew it into a tube, turn under the raw edges at the top and bottom, fold the tube in half so the top and bottom edges meet (think double fold bias tape here), and attached it to the sleeve much like bias tape would be attached to finish a raw edge. This might also be a nice way to add a little extra length to a sleeve that came out too short, depending on how close to the sleeve edge you attach the cuff.
To find the total height you need for this method, you need to take the height you want the cuff to be and double it, then add two seam allowances for folding the raw edges. I would probably add about 1/2" extra for all the folds. Your formula would probably look something like this: (height of cuff x 2) + (seam allowance x 2) + 1/2" = total height of fabric for cuff. So for my cuff, it would be (3 1/4" x 2) + (5/8" x 2) + 1/2" = 8 1/4".
The trouble with this method is that for thick fabrics, like fleece, you're going to need to sew through quite a few layers, especially when sewing over seams. My machine doesn't like that, so I didn't use this method past the experimental stage. But since it is pretty simple, and not all machines would have trouble with it (especially if you're using thinner fabric, like flannel), I thought it deserved a mention.
Method 2:
This is the method I used to add the cuffs to my sleeves. It's a little more complicated than the binding-type edge, and I don't have a catchy name for it, but it does create a nice, neat edge with fewer layers to sew through. In fact, my machine didn't have any trouble with it at all. It also requires slightly less fabric than the binding method to create the same size cuffs, if you're running low on material.
We'll start from the same point as Method 1, where we've already measured the width of the sleeve. To determine the height for this method, you'll need to decide how far into the sleeve you want the inside edge to extend. I went with 1 1/4" for the inside edge. Basically it just has to be shorter than the cuff height you chose earlier, but I won't make it less than 1", so that the edge looks neater.
The formula for this method is: (inches from inside edge x 2) + height of cuff + 1/2" for folds +5/8" seam allowance for top edge = total height of fabric for cuff. I know it looks weird, but please bear with me. It'll make more sense as we go along, I promise.
For my cuff, I got (1 1/4" x 2) + 3 1/4" + 1/2" for folds + 5/8" seam allowance = 6 7/8". I rounded up to 7" for easier measuring, because it was only 1/8" more. Don't worry, it doesn't have to be exact, we just need a close number. You can always turn the seam allowance under a bit more if it ends up being taller than you want.
Now you have both the width and the height for the cuff piece. For me, it was 19 3/4" x 7". I found it easier to cut out a piece of newspaper with these dimensions and use it as pattern paper.
Once the two cuffs are cut out, match the short ends up with right sides together to form a tube and stitch them. Use the same seam allowance that you'll use on the sleeve.
Once it's all stitched, it should look something like this, with at least 1" of fabric below the stitching line.
The inside should look something like this.
I hope this tutorial has inspired you to experiment with some of your own patterns and sewing projects! Until next time, readers!
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