Gardenia Crochet Hook Case Part 1: Measurements

It's tutorial time! Several weeks ago I posted some photos on Instagram of the new case for my tiny crochet hooks (I'm calling it the Lacey Crochet Hook Case, by the way; a free copy of the pattern is available at the end of this post). Now I've scaled it up for regular-sized crochet hooks, and I'm calling the full-size version the Gardenia Crochet Hook Case. When I scaled it up, I included customized slots for my particular hooks, but I realize everyone's hooks are probably a bit different. So rather than just posting a free PDF of the pattern I drew up, I decided to do a tutorial on how to make your own, custom-sized case! I'm breaking it up into two parts so there's not soooo much scrolling. Measuring and drafting the pattern is up first.

You'll need a pencil, a ruler or tape measure, and some paper. If you don't have paper large enough to fit the whole thing, you can tape several sheets together (which is what I had to do). The pocket section involves the most measuring, so let's talk about that first.

The Pocket (aka The Piece With A Million Stitching Lines)

I went with a very minimalist pocket style; it's just a section with slots for the hooks. I didn't include a larger section for tools, scissors, or anything like that because I keep all those things in a separate bag. That way I don't have to try to remember if I stashed them with my knitting needles or crochet hooks. If you wanted to, you could easily adapt the pocket to go all the way across the case, but that's not going to be covered in this tutorial.

Measuring

The height of the pocket is the easiest thing to determine, so let's start there. I measured the height of my shortest hook, and made the pocket 2/3s of that height. It went like this:

(Height of shortest hook / 3) x 2 + 1/8" = Height of pocket w/o seam allowances

That 1/8" allows for topstitching without reducing the height of your pocket. If you get a weird number, like 3 7/16" or something, feel free to round it so it's easier to work with. Double-check it against your tallest hook as well, to make sure it's not too short. (If it is, consider making the pocket height half of the measurement of the tallest hook, but don't forget to add that 1/8".)

Now that you have the pocket height, it's time to add the seam allowances. Add 3/4" to the top. The original height will be your fold line, and the 3/4" will be for the top hem. To the bottom edge, add your seam allowance. I used half inch seam allowances throughout the case, to keep things simple, but you can add larger or smaller ones if you prefer. 

Now you should have the total height for your pocket piece, including the seam and hem allowances! On to the length.

Determining the length of the pocket will be very easy if all your hooks are the same type (i.e. all classic Boye style, all Clover hooks with larger handles, etc). If you're like me, and your hooks are a wild assortment of whatever style you came across in the size you needed at the time, this part will involve a little more math. 

• If your hooks are all the same style: measure the width of the handles, just to make sure they are all the same. We'll assume they are for the rest of this description. We'll further assume that the height of the handle when it's laying flat is equal to, or slightly less than, the width. Double the measurement of the handle width, and add 1/8" or 1/4". That 1/8-1/4" is the ease for the slots; not enough ease, and it's difficult to put in the hooks. You could add more or less ease, but I would recommend 1/8" at least so I included that amount in the formula.
  Next, we need to multiply that by the number of hooks. So it would look like:
  
  ((Width of handle x 2) + 1/8") x Number of hooks + 1/8" = Length without seam allowances

  Then add your seam allowance to the left side, and add 7/8" to the right side. That 1/8" at the end of the formula allows for topstitching without reducing the size of your end slot. The 7/8" allows for the folding required to tuck away the raw edge. I used 3/8" for the folding. If you want to use 1/4", add 5/8" instead.
  

• If your hooks are different sizes: try to group the hooks that are similar. For example, all the classic metal hooks together, all the square handle styles together, and so on. At this point, I found it helpful to measure the diameter/width of the bottom sections of the hooks, and group them by that. Next, use the part of the equation above that's in parenthesis for each group of hooks. Then we need to multiply that by the number of hooks in the group, and add all the groups together.

  ((Width of handle x 2) + 1/8") x Number of hooks in group = Group 1 length

  Then:

  Group 1 length + Group 2 length + Group 3 length + 1/8" = Length without seam allowances

  Keep in mind that some groups may only contain one hook. Working this all out on paper can be very helpful, as can keeping a list of how many of each size slot you need (i.e. seven 1/2", three 3/4", etc). Now, just like in the previous section, add your seam allowance to the left side, and add 7/8" to the right side. As above, the 1/8" is for topstitching, so you'll still be using the same seam allowance you previously determined. You can use a narrower right edge by adding 5/8" and only folding 1/4".

Now you have the height and length measurements for your pocket piece! If you want to arrange your hooks in a certain order (smallest to largest, for example), you could do that now. I used the list of slot sizes and arranged them in the order I wanted, then sketched in the stitching lines to help me keep track. Mine ended up like this:

There are also some lines marking where the seam allowances and fold lines are, because it helped me visualize what was going on. I made a digital copy so y'all won't be subjected to my uneven measurements and sketches, lol. Anyway, the pocket piece, which is the most math-intense part, is done! Next up is the main part of the case.

The Main Case and Ties (aka The Easy Part)

I know that was a lot, so I hope you're still with me. This next part is MUCH easier. When it's done, it will look a bit like a blocky, two-story house with a one-story garage stuck onto one side. The whole thing is based on only two measurements: the height of your tallest crochet hook, and the length of the pocket without the left-side seam allowance and right-side fold allowance. Let's continue!

Measuring

We'll start by measuring the height of the tallest crochet hook. Then, add 1 1/4" to that measurement. This will be the total height of your case, without seam allowances or flap. The 1/4" allows for topstitching along the top and bottom of the case. You'll want to make a note of this measurement, because we'll need to come back to it in just a minute.

Next, let's determine how big the top flap needs to be. It will hold all the crochet hooks firmly in the case so they don't fall out. The finished height of the pocket is already worked out, and the top flap should end about 1/2" above the pocket; if it overlaps, it will make it more difficult to roll up the case, and the case will be bulkier. The easiest way to figure out the top flap is to take the height of the pocket, add the gap measurement, and subtract all that from the total height of the case.

Total case height - (Pocket height w/o seam allowances + Gap) = Top Flap measurement

For example, if my total case height is 7 5/8", my pocket height without seam allowances is 3 3/8", and the gap is 1/2", my top flap will be 3 3/4". (Honestly the hardest part of this section is dealing with fractions.) Add the top flap measurement to the total case height. This will be your final height without seam allowances. The original total case height will be your fold line. Multiply your seam allowance by two (since there will be seams at the top and bottom of the piece), and add that to the final height.

At this point, there are only two steps left! We just need to determine the length of the case and the tie measurements. There are technically two lengths involved, so lets start with the top flap length, since we were just working on that. The top flap length is the same as the pocket length without seam allowances + 1/4". You'll need to add your desired seam allowance to both the right and left sides of the top flap. 

That was easy, right? The next length is for the main body of the case. This one is also pretty easy, and we're going to refer back to the pocket piece again. Take the length of the pocket piece without seam allowances, and add 3/8" (if you're using a narrower edge, add 1/4"). Then add 3 1/8". If you want a smaller or larger side edge, you can add that amount instead. It does depend a bit on the length of the pocket. For my smallest case I put about 2 1/4" for the side edge, and I put 3 5/8" for the large one. Don't forget to add seam allowances to both sides of the main case length.

At this point, you might notice that there are two different heights on the case. The main case extends beyond the length of the top flap, so there is a right angle where the top flap ends. Don't worry, it's not as hard to work with as it looks! Just remember to add seam allowance at the top of the main case where it extends past the top flap. It should look like the image. I made a digital version so it's clearer and easier to see. I left the lines for the pocket, and the seam allowance goes all the way around. 

You might also notice three short lines on the right side. Those are to show where the ties will be placed. First mark the center of the side of the case, then the ties will be placed on either side of it. I would suggest 1/2" wide ties, which is what I used for my case. I cut two strips of fabric; each one was 1 3/4" wide by approx. 21" long (for a finished length of 20"). Those dimensions take into account seam allowances as well: 3/8" x 2 for the side and closed end, and 1/2" for the end that attaches to the case. My finished case is about 16 3/4" long. I probably could have made the ties a little shorter, and you may want to do that unless your case is rather long (you can always add a little to the tie length as well, if your case is very long). Just don't forget to tack on that extra inch for seam allowance.

Phew! The measuring is done! I'm sure you don't want to see a ruler, tape measure, or fraction for a long time. Part 2 is all about cutting and assembling the pieces drafted from this section. As promised, here is a printer-friendly copy of the Lacey Crochet Hook Case! It's designed for small, stainless steel crochet hooks, and can fit up to fifteen.

Click here to continue to Part 2!