Gardenia Crochet Hook Case Part 2: Sewing Directions

Welcome to Part 2 of the Gardenia Crochet Hook Case Tutorial! (Click here if you need to go back to Part 1.) Here we'll be talking about how to cut and sew the case together. For this part, you'll need the pattern pieces you drafted in Part 1. You'll also need the usual sewing supplies: cotton fabric, muslin (optional), interfacing, ruler, scissors, pins, thread, and something to mark the fabric (a marking pen/pencil or chalk).

The fabric requirements will differ a bit depending on your measurements, but I think it shouldn't require more than 1 yd total. My case used about a 1/2 yd, and I used fabrics that were left over from other projects; it measured about 12 1/2" x 17 3/4", including seam allowances, and the pocket section was 14 3/8" x 4 5/8". You could use the same fabric for the whole case, or mix and match fabrics. I like using quilting cotton for this project because it's easy to work with, it's durable, and there are so many prints and colors available. For the interfacing, you can use fusible or sew-in, depending on which type is your favorite. I used Shape Flex 101, which is about a medium weight interfacing; featherweight won't provide enough body.

Cutting the Fabric

Pocket: Cut 1 of fabric and 1 of muslin, cutting muslin only to the fold lines

OR Cut 2 of fabric, cutting 1 only to the fold lines; grainline should run top to bottom

Main Case: Cut 2 of fabric and 1 of interfacing; cut the interfacing so that it extends past the top fold line by the amount of your seam allowances (this will make it easier to roll up the case and remove hooks). Grainline should run top to bottom.

Ties: Cut 2 strips, 1 3/4" wide x desired length (determined in Part 1)

Optional: Cut 1 strip of interfacing 5/8" x total length of pocket piece (including seam allowances)

I'm not going to try to describe a cutting layout, because if you're using leftover fabric it really comes down to 'wherever it will fit', lol. I will say that I found two things very helpful:

1. Turning the fabric to the right side or wrong side was easier than trying to place the paper printed side up or down and mentally rotate it to how it would fit for the case. For the outside main piece of the case, fabric should be wrong side up. For the inside main piece, place fabric right side up (and make sure the pattern piece itself stays the same). Pocket should be cut with the fabric right side up as well, and fold line edge on the same side as the flap of the main case piece.


2. Cutting the case on the grainline allows a bit of give (in many fabrics) along the length of the case which seems to make it easier for the fabric to conform to the shapes of the hooks. It might not be the case in all fabrics, but it was what I observed when I was working on mine.

This case is a right-handed case because I'm right handed. To make it left-handed, flip the pattern pieces so the flap on main case and the side fold line of pocket are on the left side.

Sewing Directions

1. 
   Place the pocket piece right side down, and place the muslin (or 2nd, smaller fabric) over it, matching up the seam allowance side and the bottom. (The muslin or 2nd fabric will not show on finished piece.) Fold the side edge to the wrong side along the fold line and press. Fold the top edge to the wrong side along the fold line and press. Turn under the top raw edge so that the edge meets the fold. Press. Stitch along the bottom and top folds, 1/8" from the edges.


2. Take the inside main piece, right side up, and mark where the pocket should go. If not using the 5/8" strip, continue to step 3. If you chose to cut the 5/8" strip of interfacing, this is where you'll attach it. On the wrong side of the inside main piece, place the interfacing strip so that the top edge of the pocket will run down the middle of the strip. Fuse or baste (if using sew-in) the strip in place. This provides some reinforcement for all the stitching lines on the pocket.
   


3. Place the pocket, right side up, on the right side of the inside main piece, matching the seam allowance edges on the side and bottom and matching the corner to the mark you made in step 2. Pin in place. Stitch along the folded edge of the pocket 1/8" from the edge. It can be helpful to pin the opposite side in place for step 4.


4. 
   Using the lines drawn on to the pocket piece (or the pre-determined spacing for the slots if all the slots are to be the same size), mark the stitching lines on the pocket. It helps to use pins at the top and bottom of the lines, since you'll be marking the right side of the fabric, and it will show if the marks prove difficult to remove. Stitch straight lines between the top and bottom markings, stitching through the pocket and inside main case pieces (and the interfacing strip if using one). I found it easier to start at the end of the pocket that's already attached to the inside main case piece and work toward the seam allowance edge.
   


5. Make the ties. Take each strip of fabric and fold it in half lengthwise. Stitch 3/8" from the raw edge, pivoting at the corners, and leaving one short end open for turning. Trim seam allowances so they're even and approx. 1/4". Turn the fabric tube right side out, using your preferred method (I like to use turning tubes). Press flat.


6. Fuse (or baste, if using sew-in) interfacing to the wrong side of the outside main case piece. Mark where the ties should go. On the right side, pin the ties in place, matching raw edges, and baste the ties in the seam allowance.


7. Arrange the ties so they lay flat, folding them to get a 90 degree angle, so that the finished ends go up past the top edge of the flap. Place the inside main case piece on top of the outside main case piece, right sides together. Stitch around the edges, pivoting at the corners, and leaving 3-4" open for turning at the top of the top flap section, where the ties stick out. Trim seams and corners, or use your preferred method for preparing the corners for turning. Cut a slit (approx. 45 degree angle) into the seam allowance at the angle between the top and side flaps, being careful not to clip the stitching.
   
   


8. Turn the case right side out. Press. Slipstitch the opening at the top of the flap closed. Press the top flap down along the fold line. Lift up the top flap so the case is flat.


9. With the inside of the case facing up, topstitch 1/8" from the edge all the way around the case, starting at the fold line on the opposite side from the side flap and going toward the bottom, pivoting at the corners. When you reach the top edge of the side flap, fold the top flap down along the fold line, and stitch across it 1/8" from the edge.

There you have it! You're ready to store your crochet hooks in a stylish, customized case. I hope this tutorial was helpful, and that you had fun making a new project! If you make this pattern and post pictures on Instagram, please tag @SewKnitHome and use the hashtags #gardeniahookcase and #sewknithome. I'd love to see your makes! Happy sewing